“A Diamond Is Forever” – De Beers Own Slogan
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A primer that goes beyond the basics.
The question often asked by the public these days is not what are the 4Cs?
De Beers has done quite a good job in educating consumers to the basics about
the 4Cs.
But a pertinent question raised by one astute viewer on a CNBC program we
participated in was "Which of the 'C's is the most important?" As
the short time allotted on the program was insufficient to answer the question
adequately, we will try to elaborate herewith.
An easy way out would be to say all are important. But the reality is that
most consumers cannot afford a 10 carat "D" flawless - they have
to compromise on some of the Cs to stay within budget. In this case, which
standard of measure should be compromised? Lets look at each "C"
one by one in terms of benefits and value and recognition to the layman.
Carats
A larger diamond, indicated by carat size, is rarer and therefore more valuable.
Carat size is also the most visible of the 4Cs. You don't need any gemmological
education to see the difference between a one carat and .50ct. As a result,
carat size is also the measure that friends and future mothers-in-law spot
first. To be safe, it is always advisable to buy a diamond at least as big
as the average in the social circle of the women wearing it. So compromising
on size is sometimes impossible.
Colour
The diamond's colour ranks second in easy visibility.
The difference between a colourless diamond and Cape are quite obvious especially
when put next to each other. Even the difference between a D and an H can
be observed when compared side by side. Another factor is how the lighting
affects the colour. Some special bulbs used by unethical sellers make all
diamonds look "blue-white" Still, with a little guidance, colour
can be seen with the naked eye - without a loupe or microscope. But close
grades are often confused, even to the point that a colour "re-check"
is commonly performed by the Gemmological Institute of America. In today's
market, most American consumers insist on a colour of "I" or better
even if it means a smaller stone.
Clarity
A stone's clarity affects the beauty of a diamond
more than size and colour it also makes it rarer since only one in millions
of diamonds has little or no flaws or foreign materials. Still, most polished
diamond are "eye-clean." The fine points dividing VVS VS SI diamonds
are only seen by the customer once in his lifetime during the purchase when
the honest sellers points them out on a microscope or loupe. But the knowledge
of "purity" of a diamond is almost mystical. "I want her to
know that she is almost perfect and worth it," explained one romantic
young man as selected a diamond for his fiancée.
Cut
Recently, there has been an increased emphasis on
the significance of a diamond's cut. But while any experienced diamond dealer
will immediately spot a poorly made stone, the fact remains, that there is
far from universal agreement on the objective definition of a fine cut diamond.
Indeed, the vast majority of diamond dealers in the world have never taken
a GIA course and would find it hard to tell which diamond has a 57% table
and which a 60% table. Most would also find it insulting to define a diamond
by numbers much as a woman would not want to be defined by measurements. So
why has "cut" gained such prominence of late? For one thing, simple,
accessible technology now exists that can easily "map" a diamond's
cut and provide fuller information to the consumer. Jewellers are increasingly
employing this technology to distinguish stones and justify premium prices.
Still, in our view, the 4Cs rank according to the ability of the consumer
to recognize a stone's beauty or shortcomings. But as consumers learn more
about "cut," this criterion my move up in the ranks of its importance
to the consumer.
Why do diamond colour grades begin with "D"?
It is
a great mystery to the general public and to some in the industry.
Perhaps to most effectively drive home the point that diamonds are in a class
by themselves.
That, at least, would seem to be the explanation implied in a recent letter
to Gem & Jewelry News, published by the Gemmological Association of Great
Britain.
The letter, penned by Gemmological Institute of America Chairman Richard Liddicoat,
who was there when the grading system was developed, said that the old diamond
grading systems - using terms like "top Wesselton" and "river"
- had fast become commercially tainted. Retailers began luring customers with
promises of "extra" or even "extra, extra, extra River stones,"
he recalled.
The solution was to create a grading system that did not echo any popular
associations which could then be co-opted by any firm or firms seeking to
unfairly exploit these associations.
"It was obvious that to establish a grading system for use in the jewellery
industry, the grades could not have consumer appeal," he said. Thus,
the reason why diamond grades begin with 'D.' In America, at least 'D' had
a very poor connotation. 'E,'" a failing academic grade, could also be
short for 'excellent,' but not 'D.' It worked," the writer noted.
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